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Aceh is an autonomous territory of Indonesia, located on the northern tip of the island of Sumatra. In this region Islam was first established in Southeast Asia. Aceh is one of those Islamic communities in this region who grew to become one great kingdom. Islam came to Aceh as early as the ninth century and has remained the dominant religion to date. The population is 98.7% Muslim (BPS 2002). In the early seventeenth century the Sultanate of Aceh was the most wealthy, powerful and cultivated state in the Malacca Straits. Aceh also stood as renowned center for Islamic study. Aceh early adoption of Islam as state religion, it’s overwhelming Islamic population and it’s stature as a center for Islamic learning led to its nickname, the Veranda of Mecca.
The Rise
Aceh was initially a vassal state of Sultan Ma’arif Shah of Pedir but one day Sultan Ali Mughayat Shah of Aceh defied his overlord. As Pedir was too weak to regain control, so from that day Aceh become an independent Sultanate. Aceh’s fortune changed with a meteoric rise when Malacca fell to the Portuguese in 1511. Portuguese persecution of Muslims forced wealthy Muslims traders such as Arab and Gujarati merchants to move away from Malacca to Aceh, even some non-Muslims traders from China or India also shifted their trading posts from Malacca to Aceh. This circumstance brought considerable wealth to Aceh, strengthened the Sultanate, enabled her to grow from a country of no importance to major military and economical power in the Strait. With power significant enough to deter other competing powers in the area.
One aspect of Aceh military strength was it close relationship with Ottoman Empire. As early as 1564, during the reign of Sultan Hussain Ali Riayat Syah, Aceh had sent embassy to Istanbul to visit the court of Suleiman the Magnificent.
After the death of Suleiman the Magnificent in 1566, his son Selim II ordered that a fleet be sent to Aceh. A number of soldiers, gunsmiths and engineers were sent in this Ottoman fleet, together with ample supplies of weapons and ammunition. A first fleet was sent consisting in 15 galleys equipped with artillery, but had to be diverted to fight an uprising in Yemen. Finally only two ships arrived in 1566–67, but numerous other fleets and shipments would follow. The first expedition was led by Kurtoğlu Hızır Reis. The Acehnese paid for the shipments in pearls, diamonds and rubies. In 1568, the Acehnese attacked Malacca in the Siege of Malacca, although the Ottomans do not seem to have participated directly. It seems however that the Ottomans were able to supply cannonneers to the campaign, but were unable to provide more due to the ongoing invasion of Cyprus and an uprising in Aden.
The Ottomans taught the Acehnese how to found their own cannons, some of which reached considerable size, and the craft of making cannons had spread throughout the Maritime Southeast Asia; famous cannons were made in Makassar, Mataram, Minangkabau, Malacca and Brunei. Many of these rare cannons were captured by the European colonialists, and the bells of several Dutch churches in Aceh were made from melted Ottoman cannons. Some of these bells still carry the Ottoman crest which were originally casted on those cannons. By the beginning of the 17th century, Aceh boasted about 1200 medium-sized bronze cannons, and about 800 other weapons such as breech-loading swivel guns and arquebuses.
Aceh’s wars of conquest to gain more control of the Strait were ultimately successful (Aceh even conquered Pedir, its former overlord) and also brought into its possession several territories rich in pepper and gold in Sumatra and Malay peninsula. Aceh military prowess even able to keep the Portuguese in checked, halted Portuguese attempts to dominate trade in the Strait. This situation effectively made Portuguese conquest of Malacca mostly useless.
By 1820, Aceh supplied half the world’s pepper. A powerful and wealthy kingdom, it maintained relations with foreign powers including the Ottoman Empire, France, Great Britain, and the United States.
This level of power and Aceh relationship with various countries soon attracted danger. The Dutch trading company, VOC, soon felt its effort to monopolized trade in this archipelago was threatened by Aceh.
The War with Netherlands
Aceh has a history of political independence and fierce resistance to control by outsiders, including the former Dutch colonists and the Indonesian government. Aceh is the last region subdued by the Dutch.
The Aceh War began on March 26, 1873 when Citadel van Antwerpen, the Dutch fleet command ship released its canon shots to Acehnese coasts. On April 8, 1873, Dutch invasion forces led by Major General Major General Johan Harmen Rudolf Köhler landed on Acehnese soil. This invading army managed to capture coastal areas and stormed the capital, Banda Aceh. However, the Dutch underestimated Aceh military power, they could not went further, Acehnese finally repulsed Köhler troops back to the sea, even Köhler himself was killed in the process.
The Dutch did came back in November 1873, led by General Jan van Swieten with troops four times larger than what Köhler brought few months back. Learned from previous mistakes, the Dutch successfully overcame Acehnese resistance and captured Banda Aceh in January 1874. On January 30th, 1874 van Swieten declared the annexation of Sultanate of Aceh into Dutch crown.
However, the Sultan escaped and Acehnese army although had been driven out of the capital was still a coherent fighting force. Soon, the Dutch found themselves plunged into a long and exhausting guerrilla warfare. It’s a total war, nobilities and common people, men and women joined the rank of resistance forces all over Aceh. The Dutch had to continue launching military operations until 1880, they tried to pacify Acehnese with various efforts, military or non-military approaches. They even built a Grand Mosque in Banda Aceh to win the heart of Acehnese and as gesture of reconciliation. This move did appeased some of the people, the result shown on the condition of confrontation
which slowly diminished into minor skirmishes in jungles. However, it was not long before major conflict broke again in 1883, the Dutch responded with harsh tactics involving scorched earth tactics and massacre but it could not stop Acehnese push to expel the Dutch out of Aceh’s interior. Entering 1894, practically there was no Dutch presence all over Aceh except for a small fortified area inside the capital only. It had been 20 years since van Swieten declared the annexation of Sultanate of Aceh into the Netherlands Kingdom, but now it was the Dutchmen who cannot live in peace within Aceh soil.
The Dutch finally changed its overall tactics when an expert of Islam, Dr. Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje, arrived in Aceh. He was employed as adviser by Major J.B. van Heutsz, a colonial military leader, to help him solved his problems in Aceh. An expert of Islamic teaching and culture, fluent in several languages including Arabic, Turkish, Malay and Acehnese, Hurgronje quickly understood van Heutsz problems. He could grasped varying aspects of Acehnese society and each of their roles in Acehnese resistances to Dutch control. Hurgronje also finally understood that the spirit of Acehnese resistance was not only religious-based but also cultural-based so it could so widely embraced by all Acehnese. Especially one of the literature, a thrilling rhymes called Hikayat Prang Sabi which narratively told its readers about the noble status of everyone who fought in the war against infidel who attacked their homeland. He advised van Heutsz not to continue to launch frontal and open war against the Acehnese, because although technologically inferior, almost all Acehnese will surely fight to the death, down to last man in every battle. This attitude already proved to inflict bloody and costly war to the Dutch. So, he proposed a well-organized covert operations to win the heart of Acehnese, especially its aristocratic elites and muslim leaders who considered “soft”. Hurgronje still approved harsh military operations but it had to be highly concentrated and isolated operation to subdue few hardline muslim leaders. Hurgronje also urged the Dutch leadership to widen the existing gulf between the Acehnese nobility and traditional religious leaders. These tactics proved successful, slowly Acehnese resistance lost their base of supports. With Hurgronje advices, the Dutch began to install more and more Acehnese aristocrats within Dutch’s administration and more and more concentrated military actions from the new military unit, the lightly-armed but highly trained and highly mobile, the Marechaussee units. The Dutch continued to practice this tactic to embrace all parties showing acceptance to Dutch rules and sent out concentrated military operations with this special force to quickly massacre and scorched anyone and anyplace detected as emerging resistance stronghold.
End of the Sultanate
In 1898 finally most Aceh can be pacified and Van Heutsz was proclaimed governor of Aceh and by following Hurgronje advises, he continued to gain more territories under Dutch control. In 1903, the last Sultan of Aceh, Muhammad Daud Syah, finally capitulated, effectively ended Acehnese resistance as coordinated fighting forces. By 1904 most of Aceh was under Dutch control, and had an indigenous government that cooperated with the colonial state. The Dutch consolidated their control over Aceh by practising a policy of religious tolerance as a means of dissuading the Acehnese from taking up an armed struggle. Nevertheless, episodes of marked Dutch military cruelty still occurred during this period.
Aceh was entering new chapter of it’s history. Aceh as a state was practically dissolved. However, colonial influence in the remote highland areas of Aceh such as Gayo was never substantial, and limited guerrilla resistance led by religious ulema persisted as late as 1914. Even Dutch citizens and personnel still were targeted by sporadic suicidal attacks by Acehnese patriots. This phenomenon was popular among the Dutch as the “Atjeh-moord” or “Aceh murder” and forced the Dutch government to maintain substantial forces within the province.
And even without the Sultan’s flag, in the mid 1920, Aceh again fell into a big guerrilla war against the Dutch, which only ceased briefly when the Dutch in this archipelago suddenly surrendered to the Japanese in 1942. The Japanese enjoyed brief welcome as liberator but soon several policies from Japanese imperial administration (especially Japanese belief that their emperor is God’s descendant) came into conflict with Acehnese strict adherent to Islamic values. In no time, the Japanese had to experience what the Dutch had experienced years before. A mass and fierce rebellion broke out and devastated Japanese forces stationed there. In October 1945, news reach Acehnese fighters that a new state on previously territory known as Dutch East Indies had been proclaimed in Jakarta and the Japanese surrendered to the Allied Powers. Acehnese fighters swept across Aceh, disarmed almost all Japanese troops by themselves without waiting Allied troops to come. Acehnese guerrilla declared themselves were part of the whole Indonesian revolutionary forces, especially after Indonesian first president, Soekarno, promised that even Indonesia will not become an Islamic Republic, Aceh will be granted special autonomy, Islamic law will govern Aceh. Aceh resistance leader at that time, Teungku Daud Beureueh, was pleased with that promise. Aceh now became revolutionary stronghold, even the Dutch bypassed Aceh when they launched contra-revolutionary actions between 1947 to 1948 to bring back this archipelago under Dutch control. During this Indonesian War of Independence, the Acehnese again showed that they are people who put dignity above all else. Despite their difficulties, they were able to collect money, gold and various valuable things to purchase Indonesian first transport airplane to overcome Dutch Naval blockade. This airplane registered as RI-001 was also the first airplane owned by then the national air-carrier of Indonesia, Garuda Indonesia.
The Indonesian Era

Teungku Daud Beureueh
As Indonesia consolidate control over its territory, Daud Beureuh was appointed as Military Governor of Aceh, the ruler of Aceh. However, although longer than the Japanese, the new nation of Indonesia that Acehnese willingly joined and even strongly supported finally met with the firmness of Acehnese attitude, maybe, partly because Indonesian goverment was not sensitive with Acehnese strong self-esteem. After the Dutch formally surrendered its authority over this archipelago in 1949, Indonesian government dissolved Aceh province and amalgamated into North Sumatra. Acehnese were dissatisfied, the central government began to be seen as traitor because now the prospect of Islamic law implementation was dim.
In 1953, when Kartosuwiryo from West Java declared the creation of Indonesia Islamic State (Darul Islam), Daud Beureueh issued his endorsement to the rebellion and Aceh was declared part of that Islamic state. Aceh again fell into state of war, the central government launched miitary operation to quell this rebellion. Though there was no big open battle just like in Dutch era, but none could deny that it was a cruel and bloody conflict. However, both parties finally came into peace agreement in 1963. Daud Beureueh and his people agreed to lay down arms and in return the government agreed to reestablish the province of Aceh including it’s special autonomy status.
Aceh is quiet for some time until the 70s when under agreement with Indonesian central government, American oil and gas companies began exploitation of Aceh natural resources. Alleged unequal distribution of profit between central government and people of Aceh induced Hasan di Tiro, former ambassador of Darul Islam, to call for Independent Aceh. He proclaimed Aceh Independence in 1976.
The movement had a small number of followers initially, and Hasan di Tiro himself had to live in exile in Sweden. Meanwhile, the province followed Suharto’s policy of economic development and industrialization. During late 80s several security incidents prompted the Indonesian central government to take repressive measures and to send troops to Aceh. Aceh was declared as Daerah Operasi Militer (Military Operation Area) and human rights abuse was rampant until the next decade. This was resulting in many grievances on the part of the Acehnese toward the Indonesian central government.

Women Soldiers of Free Aceh Movement
During late 90s, chaos in Java and weakened central government due to the Asian Economic Crisis gave advantage to Free Aceh Movement and resulted in the second phase of the rebellion, this time with large support from the Acehnese people. This support was demonstrated during the 2000 plebiscite in Banda Aceh which was attended by nearly half million people (out of its four million population). Indonesian central government responded in 2001 by broadening Aceh’s autonomy by giving its government the right to apply Islamic law more broadly and the right to receive direct foreign investment. However, this was again accompanied by repressive measures, and in 2003 an offensive began and a state of emergency was proclaimed in the Province. The security crackdowns during this time resulted in several thousand civilian deaths. The government launched a large 2003-2004 Indonesian offensive in Aceh against the Free Aceh Movement in 2003 with some success. the Free Aceh Movement was severely hit by these series of offensives, in which the organisation lost approximately 50% of its fighters, including its military Chief Commander Abdullah Syafei’i Dimatang who was killed in a military ambush on January 2002.
Blessing in Disguise within Greatest Tsunami
On December 26th, 2004, a great disaster of this century happened. An earthquake with a magnitude of between 9.1 and 9.3, the third largest earthquake ever recorded on a seismograph, devastated several area around Indian Ocean. This earthquake had the longest duration of faulting ever observed, between 8.3 and 10 minutes. It caused the entire planet to vibrate as much as 1 centimetre (0.4 inches) and triggered other earthquakes as far away as Alaska. Its epicentre was between Simeulue island and Sumatra island, Indonesia. And the area of Aceh was taking the hardest hit. This earthquake triggered a series of devastating tsunamis along the coasts of most landmasses bordering the Indian Ocean, killing over 230,000 people in fourteen countries, and inundating coastal communities with waves up to 30 meters high. It was one of the deadliest natural disasters in recorded history. Indonesia was the hardest hit, followed by Sri Lanka, India, and Thailand.
U.S. Geological Survey Web Site wrote that the earthquake that generated the great Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004 is estimated to have released the energy of 23,000 Hiroshima-type atomic bombs.
On Tuesday, 28 December 2004, in the aftermath of the devastation caused by a massive tsunami, GAM declared a ceasefire of hostilities to allow for aid to reach within the disputed area. In turn, the Indonesian government temporarily removed its security restrictions to allow for rescue efforts in that area.
On 27 February 2005, the Free Aceh Movement and the delegation of the Indonesian government started another round of peace talks in Vantaa, Finland, moderated by former Finnish president Martti Ahtisaari. On 16 July 2005, the Indonesian Minister of Communication and Free Aceh Movement announced a peace deal to end the thirty-year insurgency. The peace agreement was officially signed on 15 August by chief Indonesian negotiator Hamid Awaluddin and Free Aceh Movement leader Malik Mahmud.
Under the terms of the agreement, both sides agreed to cease all hostilities immediately. Free Aceh Movement also agreed to disarm, while the Government pledged to withdraw all non-local military and police by the end of 2005. An Aceh Monitoring Mission was set up by the EU and ASEAN to oversee the process of disarmament and the reintegration into society of all Free Aceh Movement members. A presidential decree granted amnesty to about five hundred former Free Aceh Movement members who were in exile in other countries, and unconditionally released about 1,400 members who had been jailed by the Government.
The Government agreed to facilitate greater degree of autonomy in Aceh such as establishment of Aceh-based political parties and implementation of Islamic law; these had been some of the most contentious issues in previous negotiations. A “truth and reconciliation commission” will be organized. On the question of the uneven distribution of income, it was settled that 70% of the income from local natural resources will stay within Aceh.
On 27 December 2005, the leaders of the Free Aceh Movement announced that they had disbanded their military wing. The action, which took effect immediately, follows from earlier peace talks and the destruction of 840 weapons by international observers, Free Aceh movement commander Sofyan Daud told reporters, “The Aceh national army is now part of civil society, and will work to make the peace deal a success.”
During the election of December 11, 2006, Free Aceh Movement finally participated in Indonesian election for governorship. They temporarily split into two factions, each supporting its own candidate for governorship. One side, supported Zaini Abdullah’s brother, and the other supported Irwandi Yusuf, former Free Aceh Movement negotiator. Irwandi Yusuf got more support from grass root level however, and won the election.
On October 11, 2008, leader of the now dissolved Free Aceh Movement, Hasan Tiro, returned to Aceh after 30 years of exile. Although he was not in good health condition as a consequence of previous strokes, he was too frail to deliver his own speech at his welcome rally which attract thousand of people. Since then, he did not play an active role in Aceh’s ongoing political process. He stayed for two weeks before returning to Sweden. On October 17, 2009 he returned again to Aceh for the second time and stayed there ever since. On June 2010, he obtained his Indonesian citizenship back after living years with a Swedish passport. Shortly afterwards, he died on June 3, 2010 of multiple organ dysfunction syndrome in a Banda Aceh hospital after two weeks in intensive care. A lot of people pray for him at Masjid Raya and thousand took his body to final resting place at Tengku Cik Di Tiro National Hero Cemetery where Hasan’s grandfather Tengku Cik Di Tiro also been buried there. He’s living most of his life as a rebel but he died as a hero.
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Komplek Makam Syiah Kuala
“SAYA khadam dari keturunan yang kedelapan,” kata lelaki itu. Dia mengenakan sarung, kemeja muslim dan kopiah hitam. Ucapannya bernada bangga sekaligus hormat. Sebab hanya orang dan keturunan tertentu yang mendapat hak waris sebagai khadam.
Dalam bahasa Arab dan Melayu, khadam sebutan untuk orang yang menjadi juru kunci. Tugasnya menjaga dan memelihara makam.
Makam yang dia jaga adalah makam orang yang dikenal saleh, berilmu, dan mulia. Makam itu tempat peristirahatan terakhir ulama besar Aceh dan pemimpin tarekat Sattariyah, Syeh Abdurrauf bin Ali Al Fansuri Assingkili. Masyarakat lebih mengenal sang ulama dengan nama Syiah Kuala. Dia menjabat sebagai Kadhi Malikul Adil di Kerajaan Aceh Darussalam pada masa Ratu Safiatuddin Syah (1641-1675), Nakiatuddin Syah (1675-1678), Zakiatuddin Syah (1678-1688), dan Kamalat Syah (1688-1699).
Machmud adalah pensiunan pegawai negeri di Dinas Sumberdaya Air, Banda Aceh. Hampir tiap hari dia datang ke pemakaman, mulai jam delapan pagi sampai enam sore. Jabatannya adalah koordinator ahli waris juru kunci pemakaman. Tiap Senin dan Kamis, dia menerima puluhan bahkan ratusan peziarah. Dalam sepekan dia hanya libur pada hari Jumat.
Machmud menggantikan khadam Syiah Kuala sebelumnya, Abdurrahman Ibrahim, lewat musyawarah para ahli waris. Abdurrahman tak lain adalah abang kandung Machmud.
Ketika tsunami menggulung Aceh, gelombang itu menghancurkan benda-benda dan memusnahkan mereka yang hidup. Abdurrahman bersama istri dan empat anaknya tak terkecuali. Keluarga itu tinggal di gampong Deah Raya, kecamatan Syiah Kuala. Rumah mereka tak jauh dari kompleks pemakaman.
Tak satu pun rumah penduduk tersisa di gampong itu. Yang selamat hanya makam Syiah Kuala yang terletak dua puluh meter dari tanggul.
Kondisi makam rusak berat. Pagar besi pelindung bengkak-bengkok. Tanah amblas. Namun posisi batu-batu yang melindungi makam nyaris tak berubah. Satu nisan masih berdiri tegak, satu lagi patah. Nisan-nisan lain rebah dan berserak di sekeliling makam sang ulama. Terpisah dari kuburan masing-masing.
Saat melewati makam itu, wangi melati tercium dari di tepi utara. Tapi saya tak melihat bekas taburan melati di sekeliling makam. Pohon melati pun tak ada. Beberapa pokok bakau terletak sekitar 50 meter dari pemakaman. Tanah gersang. Tambak-tambak rusak. Panas matahari membakar kulit. Dan laut luas begitu dekat dari sini.
Pagi itu saya ditemani Muhammad Isa, pengemudi becak-mesin yang mengantar saya ke pemakaman, dan tiga orang peziarah. Juru kunci makam belum datang.
Saya tak percaya dengan penciuman sendiri, lalu bertanya kepada Isa.
“Bang, abang mencium wangi melati?”
“Iya, wangi.” Isa mengendus-endus, mencari sumber bau tersebut.
Tiga peziarah itu pun mengalami hal serupa. Mereka mencium aroma melati saat mendekati makam. Mungkinkah ada orang yang sengaja menyiram parfum ke makam?
Minggu berikutnya saya kembali lagi ke situ dan mencium wangi yang sama.
“Tidak… tidak pernah ada yang menyiram minyak wangi ke makam,” kata Machmud, juru kunci makam.
Tapi, ah, saya tak ambil pusing. Saya kembali berkeliling makam, mengamati situs bersejarah yang rusak itu.
PADA 29 Januari 2006 lalu, penjabat Gubernur Mustafa Abubakar menyatakan, pemerintah daerah telah menyediakan dana sebesar Rp 1,5 miliar untuk memperbaiki kompleks pemakaman. Dia datang bersama para pejabat daerah.
Di lain hari, ketika Menteri Koordinator Kesejahteraan Rakyat Aburizal Bakrie mendatangi tempat itu, dia juga menjanjikan hal yang sama: membantu merekonstruksi makam.
“Tapi sampai sekarang belum ada realisasinya,” ujar Machmud.
Ruang kerja Machmud berdinding tripleks dan beratap seng, bersebelahan dengan makam. Di ruang itu pula dia menerima dan mencatat nama peziarah yang datang.
“Selama ini pemeliharaan dan perawatan kami lakukan sendiri. Pembangunan pagar juga dari dana kita sendiri.”
Entah bermaksud menyinggung pemerintah atau tidak, sebuah papan besar memuat tulisan yang meminta perhatian pemerintah. Bunyinya, “Sejauh mana perhatian pemerintah terhadap makam yang sangat bersejarah ini.… Marilah kita sama-sama menjaga, memelihara serta merawatnya agar tetap utuh sepanjang masa. Jangan sampai jatuh ke laut.”
Tiba-tiba seorang ibu bersama anaknya memberi salam dan masuk. Mereka membawa karung putih berisi seekor ayam berbulu putih. Dalam bahasa Aceh, Machmud menanyakan maksud kedatangan si ibu. Ibu itu memperkenalkan diri sebagai Nurhayati binti Usman. Anak laki-lakinya yang berusia sekitar empat tahun itu bernama Adlan Kamal.
“Saya memenuhi nazar untuk anak saya yang baru sembuh dari sakit.” Machmud menerjemahkan kepada saya. Tak berapa lama, Machmud menjelaskan apa arti nazar dan bagaimana seharusnya nazar dilakukan. Dia juga menerangkan bahwa tiap peziarah yang datang, termasuk sang ibu, dilarang meminta apapun kepada almarhum Syiah Kuala.
“Karena itu namanya syirik. Mintalah hanya kepada Allah yang Mahakaya,” ujar Machmud.
Nurhayati menyerahkan ayam kepada Machmud sebelum pamit pulang. Machmud sempat memotret ibu dan anak itu dengan kamera digital sebagai dokumentasi.
Menurut Islam, nazar berarti mewajibkan diri-sendiri melakukan atau tidak melakukan suatu perbuatan yang tujuannya mengagungkan serta mendekatkan diri kepada Allah. Dalam ensiklopedi Islam disebutkan bahwa hukum melaksanakan nazar atau melaksanakan sesuatu sesuai dengan yang telah dinazarkan adalah wajib.
“Mengapa banyak orang memenuhi nazarnya di makam Syiah Kuala, tidak di tempat lain?” tanya saya pada Machmud.
“Memang banyak tempat lain. Tapi menurut pengakuan mereka, lebih yakin melakukannya di sini daripada di tempat lain. Dan sesuatu yang diikuti dengan keyakinan akan lebih afdhal (utama) dikerjakan.”
“Dengan apa saja warga biasanya bernazar?”
“Apa saja. Ibu tadi dengan seekor ayam. Yang kaya ada yang bernazar dengan kambing. Mereka yang tidak mampu bisa dengan mengerjakan salat sunat. Pokoknya disesuaikan dengan kemampuan dia.”
Orang-orang yang bernazar datang dari berbagai kalangan. Kepala Kepolisian Resor Aceh Tamiang, Ajun Komisaris Besar Polisi Agus Djaka Santoso, belum lama ini memenuhi nazarnya.
“Dia bernazar agar segera dipromosikan jadi kapolres, dan terkabul. Setelah dilantik sekitar seminggu lalu dia memenuhi nazarnya dengan memotong seekor kambing,” kisah Machmud.
Dia memperlihatkan foto kambing milik Kapolres Aceh Tamiang itu sebelum disembelih. Bulunya hitam pekat. Badannya gemuk. Setelah dikuliti, biasanya daging dan tulang kambing dimasak di tempat yang tak jauh dari makam Syiah Kuala. Warga setempat dan peziarah akan menyantap masakan itu bersama-sama.
Dalam buku tamu Machmud, hingga pertengahan 2006 ini sudah tercatat 105 ekor kambing yang disembelih untuk memenuhi nazar.
Banyaknya warga yang berziarah membuat makam tak pernah sepi. Beberapa pekan setelah tsunami, dalam sehari jumlah pengunjung mencapai seribu orang. Selain berziarah, pengunjung kerap memberi sumbangan.
“Pak Muhammad Anshari dari Bekasi Utara menyumbang Rp 10 juta untuk menata kembali batu-batu nisan.” Machmud menunjukkan catatannya.
Ketika Presiden Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono berniat mengunjungi makam Syiah Kuala, Kepala Staf Angkatan Darat Jenderal Djoko Santoso memerintahkan anak buahnya membangun bale, semacam tempat istirahat sementara. Namun ketika bangunan panggung bercat hijau itu rampung, SBY tak kunjung menepati niatnya.
Tapi berkah dari makam Syiah Kuala terus berlanjut. Bahkan tukang becak-motor, seperti Bang Isa, tak luput dari rezeki. Soalnya, jarak dari jalan utama ke pemakaman lumayan jauh, antara tiga hingga lima kilometer. Peziarah butuh sarana untuk mencapai makam. Ditambah lagi, jalan berlubang dan belum diaspal. Debu beterbangan.
“Rata-rata sehari saya bisa dapat Rp 40 ribu,” kata Isa yang tinggal di barak daerah Lambaro Skep, tak jauh dari pemakaman.
Jumlah itu jauh dari cukup untuk bisa memenuhi kebutuhan hidup istri dan delapan anaknya. Tapi, dia mengaku masih beruntung memperoleh pemasukan.
Bagaimana dengan Machmud? Siapa yang menggaji dia untuk menjaga makam?
“Ya dari dana amal.”
“Dari pemerintah?”
“Tidak… tidak ada.” Machmud menggelengkan kepala.
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Massa air itu sudah berusia 12 miliar tahun dan 140 triliun kali dari semua massa air bumi![]()
Massa air berbentuk awan itu, berusia 12 miliar tahun dan diperkirakan mengandung massa air yang besarnya 140 triliun kali lipat dari seluruh massa air yang ada di bumi.
Awan uap air itu dikelilingi oleh sebuah lubang hitam supermasif yang dikenal dengan quasar, berada di lokasi yang berjarak sekitar 12 miliar tahun cahaya dari Bumi.
Seperti dikutip stasiun berita MSNBC, para ilmuwan mengatakan bahwa temuan ini membuktikan bahwa air telah ada sejak awal keberadaan jagad raya
"Karena cahaya yang kita lihat meninggalkan kuasar itu lebih dari 12 tahun cahaya, kita melihat kehadiran air hanya sekitar 1,6 milar setelah awal dari jagad raya," ujar Alberto Bolatto, salah seorang peneliti dari University of Maryland lewat sebuah pernyataan.
"Penemuan ini menandai keberadaan air semiliar tahun lebih dekat dengan peristiwa dentuman besar," kata Bolatto.
Quasar adalah obyek bercahaya dan paling energetik di alam raya. Kuasar ditenagai oleh lubang hitam besar yang menghisap gas-gas dan debu di sekitarnya lalu memuntahkan energi dalam jumlah ebsar.
Para tim astronom berhasil mendeteksi dan mengkonfirmasi keberadaan awan air itu di sekeliling quasar, melalui dua teleskop berbeda, satu di Hawaii dan satu lagi di California.
Peneliti memperkirakan, bahwa uap air itu terbentuk di awal kemunculan alam raya. Jadi, penemuan awan tua ini tida terlalu mengagetkan mereka. "Ini adalah bukti selanjutnya di mana air meresap ke seluruh alam semesta, bahkan di saat-saat yang sangat awal," ujar pemimpin penulis riset, Matt Bradford, dari Jet Propulsion Laboratory NASA di Pasadena, California.

Berwujud Es
Quasar APM 08279+5255 mengandung uap air yang besarnya 4.000 kali lebih besar daripada galaksi Bima Sakti, kata para peneliti. Hal ini mungkin dikarenakan banyak air di galaksi Bima Sakti yang berwujud es, bukan uap.
Uap air di quasar didistribusikan ke sekitar lubang hitam masif di wilayah yang panjangnya mencakup ratusan tahun cahaya. Awan tersebut memiliki suhu minus 63 derajat Fahrenheit (-17,2 derajat celsius), namun, atmosfer bumi memiliki kepadatan yang 300 triliun kali lebih padat daripada awan tersebut.
Setidaknya, awan itu lima kali lebih panas, dan 10 sampai 100 kali lebih padat daripada apa yang biasa dijumpai di galaksi-galaksi, termasuk Bima Sakti, kata para peneliti. Awan air itu juga mengungkap info penting lain tentang quasar.
Pengukuran uap air dan molekul-molekul lain seperti karbon monoksida, mengungkap kemungkinan bahwa terdapat jumlah gas yang cukup bagi lubang hitam untuk berkembang hingga sekitar enam kali dari ukuran sebelumnya. Temuan ini akan segera dipublikasikan pada Astrophysical Journal Letters.
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Memang untuk menjadi terkenal di era sekarang ini, peran internet atau situs-situs jejaring social seperti facebook, twitter, myspace, youtube dan sebagainya bisa dengan sekejap mata menjadikan seseorang menjadi selebritis dadakan.
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Pada tanggal 14 Juli 2011, banyak orang di wilayah Jabodetabek melihat cahaya aneh berwarna oranye terang.
Berikut foto-foto yang dikirim oleh Ekie yang diambil dari Bekasi.


Dan berikut foto-foto dari Togoe PS yang diambil dari wilayah Brawijaya, Jakarta.
Penampakan tersebut dilihat oleh banyak orang di wilayah Jabodetabek sehingga sempat diberitakan oleh beberapa media. Salah seorang user youtube juga mengupload video penampakan tersebut seperti yang bisa kalian saksikan di bawah ini:
Nah, sekarang, apakah identitas objek yang terlihat pada foto-foto dan rekaman tersebut? Apakah meteor?
Saya sendiri pernah menyaksikan jejak-jejak seperti itu beberapa kali. Kadang terlihat bercahaya terang, kadang tidak. Kadang terlihat horizontal dan kadang terlihat vertikal. Pada foto-foto di atas, jejak api terlihat seperti menurun (jatuh) sehingga kita akan segera menyimpulkan kalau kita sedang melihat sebuah objek angkasa yang jatuh seperti sampah angkasa ataupun meteorit.
Namun, sebenarnya tidak harus demikian.
Ketika Prof.Thomas Jamaluddin dari LAPAN ditanya oleh wartawan Vivanews mengenai identitas objek ini, ia berkata kalau jejak itu adalah "Jejak kondensasi dari pesawat tempur yang memunculkan asap putih".
Dalam hal ini, saya setuju 100 persen dengan Prof.Djamaluddin, walaupun menurut saya jejak kondensasi tersebut tidak harus berasal dari pesawat tempur. Pesawat komersil pun sering menghasilkan jejak semacam itu.
Bukti lain kalau jejak itu ditimbulkan oleh pesawat terlihat pada dua foto yang dikirim oleh Ekie di atas. Jejak tersebut terlihat seperti berbelok dan tidak bergerak dalam arah yang lurus. Ini adalah bukti lain kalau jejak tersebut tercipta oleh sebuah pesawat, bukan meteor, karena meteor tidak bisa mengubah arah pergerakannya.Pesawat yang menciptakan jejak kondensasi tersebut tidak terlihat karena posisinya yang cukup jauh dan kualitas kamera yang digunakan tidak memadai.
Istilah yang lebih populer untuk jejak kondensasi tersebut adalah contrail. Ketika gas buangan yang panas dari pesawat menjadi dingin, butiran es atau butiran kristal mikroskopis akan tercipta. Ini menyebabkan jejak gas buangan tersebut bisa terlihat dengan mata telanjang.
Contoh contrail bisa terlihat pada foto di bawah ini.Pesawat jenis yang berbeda bisa menghasilkan contrail yang berbeda pula. Tidak harus berupa empat jalur seperti pada foto di atas. Beberapa jenis pesawat bisa menciptakan contrail yang panjang, sedangkan yang lainnya menghasilkan contrail yang pendek (Short Contrail). Dalam kasus penampakan 14 Juli, contrail yang dihasilkan adalah contrail pendek.
Selanjutnya, pasti akan ada dua pertanyaan yang pasti akan muncul di dalam benak kalian.
Pertanyaan pertama adalah: Mengapa jejak yang muncul pada tanggal 14 Juli terlihat seperti jejak api?
Dan pertanyaan kedua adalah: Mengapa jejak itu terlihat seperti sedang menuju ke bumi alias jatuh?
Saya akan menjawab pertanyaan pertama terlebih dahulu.
Jawaban atas pertanyaan pertama adalah karena iluminasi dari sinar matahari.
Seperti yang kita ketahui, jejak "api" misterius tersebut muncul pada sore hari. Pada foto yang dikirim oleh Ekie, terlihat pada time stamp kalau foto itu diambil pada pukul 17:57. Ini adalah saat matahari mulai tenggelam di ufuk barat.
Pada jam-jam tersebut, matahari memang sudah mulai tenggelam. Namun cahayanya masih menyinari bagian langit yang lebih tinggi. Ketika sebuah pesawat lewat, contrail yang dihasilkannya akan terkena cahaya ini dan menyebabkannya berubah warna menjadi oranye terang seperti api.
Contohnya seperti pada foto di bawah ini.
Jadi, jejak yang terlihat seperti api itu sesungguhnya adalah jejak contrail yang terkena cahaya matahari.
Jika lain kali penampakan cahaya seperti ini kembali muncul, maka saya yakin saat itu adalah sore hari ketika matahari mulai terbenam.
Lalu, untuk pertanyaan kedua soal mengapa contrail itu terlihat mengarah ke bawah.
Jawaban atas pertanyaan ini adalah karena ilusi optik.
Jejak itu tidak sedang memperlihatkan sebuah pesawat atau meteor yang sedang jatuh.
Jejak itu sesungguhnya tercipta oleh sebuah pesawat yang terbang dengan normal. Ia terlihat mengarah ke bawah karena pesawat itu sedang terbang menuju (atau menjauhi) pemegang kamera.
Walaupun kedengaran agak sukar dipercaya, namun sebenarnya sangat bisa diterima oleh logika. Contrail itu selalu horizontal (karena pesawat terbang horizontal). Namun, posisi pesawat dan pengamat akan menentukan ilusi yang tercipta.
Lihat contoh foto-foto di bawah ini:
Pesawat dan contrail yang terlihat seperti sedang mengarah ke bumi
Pesawat dan contrail yang terlihat seperti sedang naik terbang menuju angkasa. Terlihat seperti rudal.
Ini adalah contrail yang tercipta akibat pesawat yang bergerak sejajar dengan pemegang kamera, bukan jejak jatuhnya komet
Foto ini menunjukkan contrail di Jerman yang terlihat mirip meteor. Pesawat yang menciptakannya hanya terlihat samar-samar
Ini adalah contrail nyaris vertikal yang diciptakan Airbus A340-600. Sama seperti foto di atas, pesawat yang menciptakannya juga terlihat samar-samar
Foto di sebelah kanan adalah foto yang dikira rudal. Sedangkan foto yang disebelah kiri adalah contrail yang diciptakan oleh pesawat America West 24 jam kemudian
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